and visiting new strange places

20/3/08, Hampi

One of the most interesting things in my journey is meeting strangers.
I must admit that since young it fascinated me - meeting with strangers.
It means that you are all by yourself in that confrontation. There is not an introduction or a meeting at some kind of social or family event.
One have to make it’s own steps to create the occasion of the meeting to occur. We people are quick in making the decisionif it’s in our interest & if wanting to talk to a stranger. Since young, we recall faces, view them and store them in a special part of our brain.Young children will remember very clearly an unpleasant meeting with a person, and the baby will start crying immediately in meeting that face again.

Even after many years I can recall a face I met in the past, not remembering his name. It’s probably build-in in human nature to make quick connection with our kind. Young kids will show that kind of natural skill to integrate with oters. On meeting other kids, even if they do not speak the same language, they will 'measure' the other quickly and after a short time they will start playing together.

Later, in our youth we get a lot of information how dangerous it’s meeting strangers, and rightly so. Eventually, as adults we feel safe in making our new relationships mainly in familiar social circles. We get 'cold feet' and discomfort in meeting new people out of our circles, and definitely with complete strangers.

Most probably in a journey to India we are freer in our mind to make new connections. No doubt it’s the need too, especially when travelling alone. It’s a quick way to get quick information, some times it’s taking precautions and some times it’s the simple need if social contact.

In my journey I meet a lot of young people. For myself I do not have any problem talking to young and even socialising with them, but strangely I will not approach just anybody. I do not have foundation of a research, just my simple reservation and feeling - that the young people I meet that tend to make quick contact with me (an older person), I think they have good & friendly relationship with their parents. They will be the one that the age gap between us will not make the deference, on the contrary they will be open and curious to meet an older person that’s travels alone. The barrier is there, and I can see it, when I resemble their parents, than it can be even a treat. If I do want to succeed in connection with them, I have to take a long time to gain their confidence, and to start with a very low profile. Not to resemble bu amy means their parents!

I do not waisting my time making the world friendlier, but am observing it.

There is a big connection between meeting a new place and meeting new people.
In New Zealand as I was not a backpacker the transformation of a new place was different & I had the time for the instant observation to see & feel the beauty of a new place. There was no disturbance of beggars and offerings of goods & services all ever.

On arriving to a new place it’s similar to meeting a new person, it’s exciting and immediately my blood pressure go’s up a bit.
One can fall in love with a place just like with a human being, or even feel a quick dislike.

For me a new place is always exciting. I am trying to move with the rheum of the place.
I am full of pride & curiosity looking at the new passel, the new views and it’s people.

Itzik’s home, Hampi, 17/3/08

After a quiet night at the train, sleeping in the same compartment with 5 other Indians on sleeping benches, I arrived at 08.00 to Hospet.

The most difficult part on arriving to a new place is meeting lots of Indians that 'jump' on me immediately, offering any thing from Riksha Cars to Guest Houses, Post Cards etc. in addition there will be buggers, looking at me with big strong eyes, like I am their only saver.
I am learning to be tough & refuse. There will be always the one stubborn that will go behind me every where, want let go of me - the rich lady with $$$$$ - that’s probably what he sees. Even that I took my time at the reservation train office, he did not leave the sight of me - the $$$ lady. I said to him - I will take the bus and not your Kiksha Car, but he didn't let me go. In the end, his stubbornness won, and I took him to Hampi at the rate I wanted to pay.

On the way, the view changed from a flat land to extremely huge stones that were scattered all over, with Temples on top and at the background.

I got to the river, where I had to cross with a tiny boat. It takes just a few moment to cross and you are at the other side. The young master of the boat tells me that there ain't any boats after 18.00 hours. It does not sounds pleasant, as maybe I would like to go away from that island, I think…. and there will be no chance to do it.

Again, a huge laud discussion starts with some kids that offer me to curry my bags, asking extremely high price. These young kids are so professional in bargaining, that me, with all my experience I am melting easily to their force.

It’s early morning, the water of the river is dark green. Huge stones laid every where. There are some 15-20 people bathing in the river, than they put on their Jeans and go to work, some stayed to do their washing.

Happily I arrived to Itzik’s Home. There is an open restaurant in the middle, there I met the few Israelis that got up early for a homely Ness-Cafe. It is so relaxing to be there after a long journey of 2 difficult days - it feels so much like Itzik’s Home!! In the menu: Israeli salad, Chumus, Shnitzel etc.

Every one spoke of the Monkey’s Temple. When I heard that I have to claim 450 steps, I said: not today!
In the afternoon I met in the restaurant a nice young Israeli, and she said that 3 women are going to see the sun set on one of the Temples. You can join, she offered. I went to walk around the village, to know my neighborhood. Then the Ricksha Car with the 3 women stooped and I got in. I did not ask where we are going. The rice fields were green and flat land all around. The road was snaky with tiny small houses on the side, little children were running up and down the road. The huge stones appear again, smooth, dark, looking at us with their secret story.
Where did they arrived from?
Did they appear from out of space?
Did they came from the center of the earth?
….They do not belong here… even scattered all over the land.

Some say that Hampi is one of the most interesting historical place in the south of India, with the magical view of ancient dark rocks.
Vujayanagar (next to Hampi) was the main town of one of the most powerful empires in India. The town was build on 1336 and got bigger and bigger and more beautiful, until reaching the pick at the 16th century. At that time more than 1/2 a million people lived there, trading in herbs, silk etc. That was the rout of the ’silk way' most probably.
On 1565, the town was robbed suddenly by the Sultans of Dekaan & destroyed.

The Ricksha Car stopped next to a narrow sandy road. From above the big rocks were watching us!
'We arrived at the Monkey’s Temple! said Vered.
Get ready girls! 450 steps are waiting!'
I wasn't prepare for that, but 'La Ger com la Ger' I started claiming. The sun, pretty hot was watching me from above too.

Even that the stairs were not even, they were comfortable to clime. It was build for the purpose of thousands of believers to come up to to the Holy Temple.
Every 50 steps or so after a zip of water I look around to see the View - and the land was expanding wonderfully beneath us. At the near we saw the rice fields and in the distance the other Temples looked astonishing. We could see all over the ruins of that vast town that was once such a beautiful lively city.
It is such a sham that Wars destroy wonderful places.
Where all the people go?

I stopped again to drink water. Thank You Vered! I said.
The visit in the Monky’s Temple - it’s the high light of my visit in India, she said. I was here yesterday, but had to come again before leaving.

At the top of the mountain, there was a humble Temple. Monkeys run every were.
The view & power of the vast rocks expanded.
The God of the Monkeys is seeing each day the sunrise & the sunset, said the priest to us.

360 degree - the view was open all round!

We sat on the rocks watching the sunset. The peaceful view all around was extremely beautiful & powerful. But not in the same way when there were 1/2 million people living in that town.

15/3/08 Munnar

I love that simple Indian expression: 'Very Costly!'
It means also: I can not afford it!

I am not an Historian, nor a proffesional traveller (…Marco Pola ) but it’s interesting to see the changes of places according to the rulers.

The Portuguese on concering India around 1500, left a lot of impressive Churches on the most remarkable & noticable places, and did a lot of missionary work - converting Indus to Christians. On the west cost, where I am visiting now, in Kerala district - there are 20% Christians. Next to my bed the Holy Bible is proudly placed.

The Dutch appeared on 1661, 'reordered' a lot of the Churches from Catholic to Protestant, and even destroyed some, but they were tolerant in general.

The English concered Cochin on 1795 and ruled until 1947, some 150 years.
The British enjoyed India, they had lots of English Garden Tea Parties, but mainly they enjoyed the cheep labour and used their goods & treasures.

In India there are 26 counties with some hundred spoken languages, so the English language units the country!!
It gives them a bigger opportunity over others in the joined global market.

The British left a 'Very Costly' treasure in India - the English language.

In relation to the coming Passover Holyday & the 10 plagues in Egypt

Munnar 13/3/08

Every one that visits India, soon enogh finds out that there is a daily electricity run down.
Each day in the morning or in the evening, or both - the duration can be from one hour to 3 hours = NO electricity!
Lucky enough for me, in the 3 weeks that I am in India, in all the places I stayed there was a generator that soon replaced the main electricity source.

Now I am writing in the DARK!
I am amazed to discover (only now!) that people are very adaptable! We can adapt to every thing. Of course if we want!!! A bit of complaints, a bit discomfort, but soon we adapt. With that kind of power that we have, no donut we rule the world, also exploit it to the brim.

I was lucky to arrive to Munnar the day before yesterday, as to get The Darkness Stroke on the my FIRST night it’s a bit too much. Every time I arrive in a new place my first night is a bit rigged - I listen to the new night sounds, I look at the creatures in my room, I listen to the dogs bark outside etc. I am a city rat, so the noises I know are of loud Police cars, loud cry of Ambulances cars etc.

In that journey I discover again the sounds of nature. The 'music' in each place is very different. In New Zealand there are a lot of crickets. (Zarzarim = Hebrew) They sit on a tree - one huge colony. When one passes under that tree the chirping is so loud that it can hurt one’s hears. These crickets are very particular, they choose only certain trees they like to live on.
They do not like just any other tree!
I listened to that huge choir on one tree, and in the next one it’s a complete silence.
Only than I can here the birds too, Thank God they can raise their voices also.

Auroville is a real country side, without nearly any cars and pretty far from big cities, so the voices of nature are loud & proud. Each night is adventures and creative according to the events of the season and the ’symphony' will be different. Even before midnight, at just one loud bark of a dog - a major choir of dog barks starts all ever the region. At that same time the jackals are waiting… than they will wake up copmlitly, and their sound is like a line of trumpets in a live concert.
To hear the noises of the jackals just out side of my room, made me quickly lock myself in behind closed doors. But, in most houses in Auroville there is a generator!
That was the time I realise that I must get a torch….

Other exciting voices I got to know in Auroville at Ilona & Tony’s house. On the roof, actually in their attic - there live one big happy family of squirrels. I was told about them, so when I went to sleep I was ready. I must say, they have a busy life, chasing & running up and down all night.
Also I saw & heard the lizards!!! They have a loud squawk when they chase one another in romantic events: "Come to me my love!" they probably say to each other in a squawky voice.

You must see my hand writing now, as I write with my small torch = it’s looks BALAGAN!!! (rough writting)
But…. with an Indian buttery it’s soon going to be off too.

On top of the Darkness Plague, I have now a strong stomach pain. Eating the Indian food is fine, but it’s pretty HOT, and my stomach have to get used to digest it. (adaptation)
The buttery is finally dead, and the pain in my stomach increased.

I was so astonished that an hour later, when the electricity came back, the pain in my stomach went away, slowly but surly.

…and/or Who is a Jew?

Cochin, 10/03/08

When travelling in India there is so much to see in that vast continent, and so many wonderful places, that’s important to choose the subject matter of ones interest.

I choose to visit Cochin because of the Jewish long history of the town, so I travelled 20 hours on 3 trains to get there.

I am happy to announce again that Jewish roots are deep inside me - even being an 'Yehudi Chilony'. (Yehudia Chilonit)
My Jewishness is wakened when needed. [In my visit in Bet Chabad in Bangkok, when talking to the Rabi, he said: It’s a wrong to use the word 'Chilony' as it means 'chol' = 'Sand', and Jewish are Holy. Which means that it have to be reminded to the Media, Press and New publications etc.]

Seeing that long Jewish history of that picturesque town, and the vivid road called: Jew Town - a busy place, full of business with lovely spicey aroma all over that street. Lucky enough the name of that old street was not renamed.

That opened in me the wounds of our unresolved political situation in my home land = Israel.

Cochin brings a history of town that it’s people embraced the Jews for many generations. They were welcomed because of the Jews unique business qualities & ability, that was needy for the business & trade of the town with the out side world, they exported: spices, tea, ivory, teak, oils, peacocks etc. - .

On 1568 the synagogue of Cochin was build, extremely near the Maharajah’s Palace. The walls of Maharajah’s palace touched the synagogue’s court yard, the cemetery, & the congregations homes, all to protect the Jews!

The Jews first settled in that part of India, as far as 992 BC on Sholom’s time, the King of Israel. Than, when the Jews fled on 70 AC all over the wold and to India, some say. Joseph Raba - A Jewish leader, got the Magna Carta in Cochin on 379 AC, 3 pliz plates that declared honor to the Jews. Even Marco Polo among ancient travellers mentioned Jews in Quilon.
Joseph AZAR, a Jewish Prince swam with his wife on his back on 1524. They fled from the Portuguese (at time of the Spanish Acquisition) and got the protection of the Maharajah of Cochin. Hs was later the one to build the Synagogue. In one of the paintings we can see the Maharajah’s family watching over the window looking at the synagogue’s foundations.

The Synagogue itself is full of visitors from all ever the world. The atmosphere if of tranquility and simplicity with old glory. It’s one of the 10 main attractions of the city. The main hall is nearly empty but some old bunches next to the walls, and in the centre the Reading area of the Torah, 3 steps high. Chinese hand painted tiles were laid in 1762 on the synagogue’s flour, a total of 1100 tiles were brought over from Canton in China, no one of the tails alike. On the western wall towards the east there is a red cover, behind there are at some Torah books with golden & silver crowns. (not to be seen only on ceremonies.) Every Friday & Suturday there is a ceremony, for Jews only. Jewish people are invited to come for Minian, as there are only 15 men & women in the congregation.
On the Second flour there is Esrat Nashim, behind a wooden decoration.

Moses Pereya from the Jewish community in Amsterdam send from Cochin his report on 1686. That first & most important historical document that was ever written or published of the Jews in Cochin: There were 4 synagogues and 128 families in Cochin, another 4 synagogues in the greater area with around 62 families and 550 people.

On the celebration of the 400th anniversary of the Synagogue, with the presents of Smt. Indira Gandhi, Prime Minister of India, and a special stamp and first day cover were issued, there was great pride of all sides.

It’s exciting for me to see that kind of respect for my people. That’s the basic Hindu perception to the 'other' on general. Hindu have great tolerance to others no matter what & who they are, or of what religion.

When most of that Indian community arrived in Israel on 1949, with great excitement - the BIG Question rose, like time and again -
Who is a Jew?

Cochin 6/3/08

I am on my way to Cochin. (The old Jewish town).
I arrived in Pondicerry and with the help of a nice driver I manged to conduct the difficult task of buying a train ticket. To buy a ticket one should order days in advance, also to fill a full form of personal details: Name, age, address etc. Other wise one is traveling in the compartment that is open to all the crowed.

I took the first train to Villupuram. It was 8 rupees only for 1 hour trip. People were asleep on the benches, loud voices and shouting were every were. Suddenly a really scruffy woman came, a beggar, looked at me and she could not leave the sight of me. Every minute she moved to a different seat until eventually she sat opposite me, moving away the woman that was sitting opposite me. She was with no shoes and some teeth messing, but she was looking at me with a big smile. I was looking at the other end, trying to void an eye contact but she continued to stair at me. Every time we had an eye contact, she smiled pleasantly at me like she is the happiest person in the world. Happily I left the train on my station.

I was with 3 heavy bags, there was no way I will go with them to the box office to buy a ticket to my next destination. As I am a stranger, people start immediately to talk to me. They are looking for any excuse to start a conversation. So I am using it too, to find out were I should go for my next train.

A nice family started a conversation with me, in the end the husband volunteered to buy me my ticket to Tirucuchchirapali. It’s even difficult to say the mane of the town… The lovely family of 3 = parents and a kid at the age of 10, were so happy to help me, talking hardly any English, but all smiling.

The right train arrived. A mass of people that came from all over jumped into the train, I followed the nice family. The train was packed to the brim!!! there were no places to seat or hardly any way to stand. Suddenly a man came close and said to me that it’s not a place for me to travel in that compartment, and he helped me out in a rush with my bags to move to the reserved seats. He said to me: There is only some chance of having a space to seat on the flour… I said OK.
I got in. That compartment was full to the brim too, but the people looked tidyer, like middle class. I had just about a space to stand up. Eventually after 2 hours sitting on the flour, I set down between a nice Indian family of 15 that traveled with thier olds & babies to a Holy Temple festival. With the skarf of her Surri a woman did a cradle that was tied to the top rake, and her baby rested for the 4 hour journey peacfully.

I arried at my station, lots of peple left in a harry to their destinatins. Now I was looking for the night train to Cochin. I bought an ordinary ticket as there was no sleepers at the last moment, but there is always a chance! I was told.
Even that I was first, there were only 3 places in the sleepers and they were given to American-Indians with kids, that spoke the local langwich.

I slept on the couch, took out my pillow, and slept most of the night, opposite to a nice young woman.

At 06.45 I arrived to Ernakulam, a town next to Cochin, and took a Riksha car to Cochin! It was a bright morning, the town was waking up.
Now I am staying in a homely place - Orion Holidays, with hot water!
I must say I am enjouing every minute of it.

(*)p.s. It’s not the Indian way - as they are booking their tickets weeks in advance.